Subtraction Cutting

Using the Hapazome fabric we had drawn into, and the other fabric we are using, I sewed both of them together to make a kind of single duvet. my partner then overlocked the raw edgesof the seams, and around the top open edge of the duvet shape. We then laid out the top half of the front and back of a bodice pattern onto the fabric in a way which made the least amount of fabric waste as possible. We then cut those out and pinned, sewed and overlocked the shoulder and side seams together. The result is a really wacky abstract dress shape which we can now manipulate using Julian Roberts tunnel method of subtraction cutting. I like how this method produced very little waste, and is a great way of creating dynamic, unique pieces that really stand out. It was interesting to see what other peoples outcomes where, as even though we had the same fabric and start point, where we put the top of or dress really changed how the fabric fell.

Julian Roberts

Julian Roberts Subtraction Cutting – Runway Dream
Subtraction Pattern Cutting with Julian Roberts - The Cutting Class

Julian Roberts is a British fashion designer and academic known for his internationally recognised method of garment cutting called ‘Subtraction Cutting’ that has been published, taught and demonstrated in over 17 countries. Roberts has also won the British Fashion Council’s New Generation Award five times. His method of cutting and making garments reduces fabric waste substantially as the garments shape is created by taking away fabric, not adding. This process also keeps the volume of the fabric and allows for really full and complicated-looking garments. Subtraction cutting also allows the garment to be worn multiple ways, as you can put your arms and legs into different holes to make the fabric hang in a completely different way. The method also leads to some futuristic-looking garments, and with over-consumption becoming a big problem, this technique could be the only way clothes get made in the future. To make this technique really effective, I think it’s best to use two block colours or one plain and one patterned fabric, which I could do with my print on my final piece.

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